FAQ for "The Responsive Window"

This is really more of a troubleshooting page for the Tapper system.

Symptom: The graphics have stopped working. (I knock and nothing happens.)
Solution: Press the escape key (Esc) on the computer keyboard, and double click on the last icon on the desktop, which should look like a green tree. This restarts the graphics program. The name of this icon should be a shortcut to shaperot.exe

Symptom: I tried resetting the graphics program and it still doesn't work. What should I do?
Solution: Try completely resetting, as described in the how-to page.

Symptom: When I do step 3 in the how-to guide, it gives me an error. It says it cannot open or find the DSP!
Solution: Check to see if the DSP is getting power. On the side panel, there should be a green light and a red light, both marked by '-5V' and '+5V' respectively. These both should be on. If one of these lights are off, turn the power off immediately. Then check to see all the stereophone jacks are fully plugged into the side panel, as well as the sensors on the window and the extension cable jacks. Finally, check that the serial ports are also securely plugged in. Then restart tapper as described in the how-to page.

Symptom: Power is getting to all the systems, but no graphics are showing up still.
Solution: While the graphics program is running, try clicking with the mouse at arbitrary locations and see if anything appears. If graphics appears, while knocking on the window, have someone observe the lights on the side panel of the input. Make sure that:

The LEDs for sensors 1 through 4 light up somewhat when a knock occurs.
The output serial port LED lights up.

In the event that one of these lights do not ever light up no matter where you knock, check that sensor's or serial port jacks once more. Else, try restarting the computer, and follow the how-to page.

Symptom: I've done everything above, and it still doesn't work, or my symptom is not listed in this FAQ.
Solution: Contact Joe Paradiso or Che King Leo by phone or email.

Symptom: A sensor fell off the window!
Solution: Shut down all power to the DSP box, and exit all programs on the desktop. The four sensors at the corners are now glued on with crazy glue - one could try and epoxy them on if sensors falling off becomes problematic. One must be careful not to get any adhesive or epoxy into or near any of the holes or recesses in the microphone - please use the glue sparingly! And follow the directions below:

For a sensor bordering the window:
Carefully and gently scrape off any dried glue from the window and sensor, making sure not to touch the center hole on the sensor. A flat blade is best. Be careful not to bend the sensor while doing this. It is easiest to unplug the stereophone jack (after turning power off) before doing this. Be sure never to plug or unplug any jacks into any part of the system while the power is on! Apply glue sparingly in a ring about half way between the center of the microphone and its outside, making sure to be careful not to get any glue to get into the center hole. Hold in position until the sensor is securely glued to the window.
For the black sensor at the top center, this sensor is extremely sensitive to shock... If it has fallen on the floor, you may need to replace it with a spare if the connections inside have been broken. Regardless, when you reglue the sensor to the window, remember that with this sensor, the glue is applied to the diaphragm , not to the outside black plastic ring. Epoxy is manditory here to get a good seal. If you replace the microphone, the shield of the wire goes to the electrode with the black paint on it - the center conducter goes to the other. Soldering is OK here. Look at the original mic, if possible, before replacing it to see how it's connected in..

If you run out of sensors, and they all seem to have been destroyed or bent out of shape, please contact Joe Paradiso or Che King Leo by phone or email.